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How to Shoot Better Summer Landscape Photography

Like most photographers, I want to get out and shoot every day. Even if the weather isn’t perfect. Therefore, this means shooting summer landscape photographs.

The general agreement in landscape photography is that it should only be taken between autumn and spring when the weather is more dramatic. Summer landscape photography can mean harsh daytime sunlight and a less dramatic sky. However, there are many benefits to shooting in the summer, from late sunsets to warmer weather.

I’m a big believer in pushing yourself to be more creative and summer photography is a good way to practice this. So here is my how-to guide for summer landscape photography.

Long Exposure Summer Landscape

What you’ll need

Before you head out on your next summer landscape photo shoot, you’ll need to remember a few basic items:

Tripod: An essential item for any landscape photographer. Even though during the day the light will allow for quick shutter speeds, owning a tripod will let you capture HDR images and help during sunset shoots.

Sunrise/Sunset app: Make sure you download a sunset/sunrise app, for example, Photopills, as this will force you to arrive early to your location.

Polarise filter: As I explain later if you want to achieve high contrast summer images I suggest investing in a polarising filter.

Location Notebook: Before you leave, make sure you have scouted the right location and if you find one while you’re out don’t forget to write it down.

Be prepared for sun: Take lots of water and sun cream. Being out in the sun for extended periods of time can cause you to dehydrate.

Wide angle lens: This isn’t a must, but if you want to capture vast areas of blue sky then I recommend you take your wide angle lens.

Capturing summer landscapes means you will encounter some problems. For example boring skies, too much green foliage and too many tourists on the beach.

Below are the techniques I use during the summer months to create stunning landscape photographs.

1. Find Silhouettes

Silhouettes are the perfect way to build drama in your scene and create a story as there are parts of the image which the audience would have to imagine themselves.

These images can use people, buildings or even animals in the scene and when shot correctly there should be a dark figure creating a smooth outline in front of a bright background.

The simplest way to photograph silhouettes is to use the setting sun as the background, this should give a strong silhouette as the warm colours of the sun fill the background.

My tip is to use one subject as the silhouette as this creates a less chaotic scene and then use manual focus as your DSLR’s sensor might struggle to autofocus.

Silhouettes - Summer Landscape Photography
Pixabay

2. Create Lens Flare

Shooting into the sun can create sun flares, frequently these flares are not wanted and the photographer makes an effort to avoid them. However, if you want to get creative with your summer photographs try and break these rules!

Start by shooting into the sun, this allows the sun’s rays to reflect through your lens creating these beautiful flares. However, ignoring what I mentioned earlier with silhouette photographs, you want to meter for your subject and have the sun slightly off centre instead of directly behind them. Otherwise, you’ll have another silhouette photograph.

When I photograph for lens flare I use aperture priority mode (Av, or A on your camera dial) this way you can set the aperture you desire while the camera automatically sets the shutter speed accordingly. Plus, use the screen live mode instead of looking through the view finder so you don’t look into the sun.

Now to capture the best sun flare you’ll need a small aperture of around f/16-f/20 as this creates a larger and more defined flare then using a large aperture of f/4 which produces a rounder, smaller flare.

F/5.6
F/36

 

  

 

 

 

3. Use a Polarised Filter

One of the most essential tools any landscape photographer should have is a polarising filter. These filters instantly improve the contrast and saturation to your images and photographers say it’s the only filter you can’t edit afterwards. This is because the filter reduces reflections and haze in a scene which cannot be fully imitated in Photoshop. Haze is a real problem during the summer so using a polarised filter assists in reducing this.

Not only that, but polarised filters can improve the appearance of the colours within rainbows. Once you rotate the filter you’ll be able to witness what your eye sees rather then what a normal camera would.

4. Take Advantage of the Flowers

When summers here you need to head out and find your flowers, which will be blooming everywhere. However, without a massive amount of effort, you can capture stunning summer photographs if you include a field or even one flower in your scene.

You can try taking images early in the morning as you watch the due form on the petals, or wait until sunset where you can photograph a field of flowers with the sun setting behind them.

When photographing a single flower it is important to remember to use a wide aperture, blurring out the background, making the flower the focal point.

Summer Photography - Flowers

5. Change your Location

During the winter and autumn months, I’m sure you’re used to photographing the same location. Whether that’s because the sun sets in the right place or you are guaranteed frost covered trees. During the summer months, however, this is likely to change, so scouting out a new location is a must!

For me, landscape photography is also a journey and a way to tell a story, so finding a new location will definitely spark your creativity and create a new chapter in your photography journey.

You’ll have to keep in mind a number of factors during the summer months that will help you chose the right location. Photographers use apps like Sun Scout to help work out where the sun will set in that particular month. Plus, where trees are usually bare, in the summer months there will be copious amounts of green foliage on the trees adding a warm tone to your image.

When researching your next location, keep an eye out for lavender farms, oilseed rape fields, wheat fields, barley and sunflowers. With a blue sky, you can achieve a large contrast between the ground and the sky.

6. Make use of Cloudy Days

Here in the UK summer doesn’t always mean sun, the vast majority of the time you can expect cloud and low lying fog to form. Most photographers can be discouraged from venturing out as the skies aren’t as dramatic as the winter months. Obviously, you won’t get that warm glow you’d expect from summer photography or the perfect summer sunset but if you find a local woodland and be creative you can take advantage of the dull sky.

Most of the time these clouds create even and soft lighting, unlike the harsh sun rays you had the week before. Therefore they act like natures light defusing box which can create very moody scenes, especially in your local woodland.

If you find the weather starts to improve you may find the clouds start to break apart, creating pools of light where the sun has broken out through the clouds. This may only last a few minutes so be quick and photograph these bursts of light before the clouds close in again.

Cloudy woodland Summer Landscape Photography

7. Morning, Midday or Evening?

To capture the best images, landscape photographers are constantly faced with the problem of knowing when the best time of day is for landscape photography. It’s a fact that summer months offer longer days to photograph which unfortunately can mean if you want to photograph sun rises you’ll need to wake up early!

Use online tools like Google Earth and Photopills which will help you find the right terrain and where the magic hours are for the sun.

In the morning you want to make sure you arrive early to capture the morning mist lying over the hills, this usually starts before the sun even rises so make sure you are prepared to wake up extremely early. There is a chance you’ll wake up and find a clear sky, this will mean the sunlight will be very strong as it rises. Therefore, you will not have a great deal of time before the sun becomes too harsh. If this happens I’d recommend you photograph using the rule of thirds and having the horizon on the top line. This means the foreground will take up two-thirds of the image and the clear sky will take up only a third.

When you imagine a summer scene you picture the image being taken during the day, where the bright sun is much higher in the sky, creating harsh light which can make your landscape image look very flat. Around midday you will likely find a haze appearing over the scene, this can reduce the color intensity in your scene and make your lens seem dirty. The way photographers counteract this, as I explained earlier, is by using a polarising filter which will defuse the haze and increase the contrast in your scene. In addition, using a wide angle lens can be very useful during the day. The wide scene of blue skies and sunlight shining through the clouds can be very effective in showing how quickly the weather can change in the summer.

During the evenings the best light normally starts to appear at around 5:00 pm, so you’ll need an early tea! The sunlight will be in the opposite direction to the sunrise you had earlier, so pre-planning your location is a must as you don’t want to find the sun setting in the wrong place. Personally, the evenings are my favorite time to take photos as I feel it has the best light.

To summarise, if you want to photograph a summer sunrise you’ll need to get there early at around 6 am other wise the sun will be too harsh. During the day you’ll need to keep in mind the sun creates harsh shadows, so maybe capture the wider scene and in the evenings arrive there at around 5 pm and stay out late. The best light might appear once the sun has set!

8. Editing

Chances are you’ll now have hundreds of summer photographs to play with, meaning during the days when you can’t take photos you can experiment with the editing process.

If you’ve become fed up with taking bright blue landscapes, why not edit them into black and white photographs. Turning a scene into black and white can make an image appear more dark and moody.

In addition, during the evening you might find yourself in a location with high amounts of contrast between the sky and the ground. You may be able to combat this if you shoot in RAW then edit it afterward. However, I personally use HDR photography. 

Black and White Summer Land

To conclude, landscape photography in the summer months can be hard but if you have a creative spark you can be rewarded with stunning images from creating silhouettes to taking advantage of lens flare.

Equipment is also an important tool in summer landscape photography as tripods and polarised filters can help enhance your images and improve the overall contrast in the scene.

Lastly, and most importantly, you need to be prepared. Don’t be afraid to find new locations, research online where other local photographers have been and make a lot of notes on what camera angles they have used. In addition, choosing the right time of day is crucial to capturing stunning summer landscapes, too late in the morning and you might find the light too harsh. Too early in the evening and you might be waiting for hours for the perfect light to appear.

How to shoot better summer landscape photography

Thank you for reading this article, if you have any other ideas please leave a comment down below and I’ll add them to the list!

If you’re studying photography I highly recommend you check out these ebooks and articles:

Thanks again and if you enjoyed reading it please share and even pin it to your Pinterest wall!

 

 

Some of these links are affiliates which means I make a small percentage if you use my link.

50+ Photography Keywords and Definitions

When you’re a beginner in photography, there can be many terms and expressions that you may have never heard of. Or you are writing a detailed piece of photography coursework and need those extra keywords to help with your marks.

These photography related keywords can help you improve your skills and is definitely vital in becoming a better photographer.

Feel free to come back once you have read this page, especially if you’re researching a photographic technique and need to find a definition.

So these are the 50+ photographic keywords every beginner photographer should know

 

Aperture: Simply it is the size of the opening of the lens. This can determine the exposure of an image and is measured in f-stops.

AE: Automatic Exposure.

Ambient light: Is the light that is already present in the scene you are shooting. It can also be known as ‘natural light’ and is commonly the name for the light.

Aperture Priority Mode: Also abbreviated to A or AV on your camera, Aperture Priority Mode is the setting on your camera that will control the f-number while the camera selects a shutter speed to match the light conditions. Therefore this is a semi-automatic mode and is a mode most photographers use.

Auto-Bracketing: Is the technique where the camera takes 3 or 5 images in a row all at different exposures. Also known as bracketing, it is what photographers use for their HDR images.

B&W: Black and white.

Bokeh: Is produced by blurring the background of an image and is popular in portraits as it forces you to focus on the subject.

BULB: Normally found in the Manual Mode setting. Bulb mode means the camera will keep taking an image until you tell it to stop, usually used for long exposures. This can be by holding your finger over the button or using a remote for your camera.

Burning: Decreases the exposure of an area within your photo. This technique is used within Photoshop and darkroom prints. It’s also the opposite of dodging where it increases the exposure of the selected areas.

Camera Angle: Is the specific location at which the camera is located so it can take the shot.

Camera Obscura: Is a technique where light from a scene outside is projected onto a wall or canvas. This then allows the artist to trace the image with a high amount of accuracy.

Camera Raw: Also known as RAW, is an image file that contains a minimal amount of processed data from the scene. Many photographers favour this image format over JPEG as it allows more control at the editing stage.

Cloning: Is a digital processing tool that allows you to copy part of an image to another part. This means you can remove part of an image that is unwanted.

Composition: Is the placement of relative subjects and elements within an image or scene to create a pleasing feel. 

Contact Sheet: Used primarily in film cameras, is a sheet of all the frames and is used as a proof print. However, it is now also used with digital images to showcase work to a client from the shoot.

Contrast: Is the difference between the light and dark areas within your images. High contrast means the blacks are darker and whites are brighter, vice versa.

Cropping: When you make an image smaller by removing the outer parts it is referred to as cropping.

Depth of Field: Abbreviated to DOF, is the distance between the closest and farthest subjects in a scene that look noticeably sharp in an image.

Double-Exposure: Superimposing two or more images on top of each other creating a unique image. 

DSLR: Digital Single-Lens Reflex

Exposure: Is the amount of light entering the camera’s sensor. Too much light and the image is overexposed and not enough light and it’s underexposed.

Exposure Compensation: Normally the +/- button on the camera and is where the photographer can control whether you want the image over or underexposed. This can help with sunsets or photographing snow where you want to underexpose and overexpose respectively.

f-Stop: Or f-number is the aperture size or aperture stop in a number that controls the size of the lens opening. Therefore controlling the amount of light entering the camera.

Feathering: A digital editing technique, blurring and smoothing out edges within the image.

Focal Point: Is a way to describe the main part of the image or a point of interest within the image.

Glass: Refers to a camera lens.

Golden Hour: The hour during sunrise and sunset where you get the best light for your image.

Graduated Filter: Normally known as a graduated neutral-density filter, it is a dark filter which is split halfway allowing the sky and ground to be exposed the same.

Histogram: Is a graph that shows the tonal values within the image, allowing the photographer to pick out which areas are too dark and too bright.

ISO: The sensitivity of a camera sensor is determined by the cameras ISO setting. Lower ISO settings are usually used for bright settings and higher ISO’s are used in darker surroundings.

JPEG: An image format (Joint Photographic Experts Group) and is the most common default setting for cameras and phones.

Macro: Photographing objects that are extremely small. Normally macro photographers would use a lens with a 1:1 ratio, which is the size of the subject on the sensor.

Midtone: Or middle tone, describes the middle tones between two colours. For example, grey is the midtone of black and white.

Monochrome: Is defined as an image that is made up of one hue or colour. Most black and white images are made up of black, white and grey.

ND: Neutral Density.

Panning: Moving the camera, usually on a tripod, with a long shutter speed to blur the background.

Rule of Thirds: A compositional technique where you place the main subject or horizon off from the centre. If you imagine a 3×3 grid placed over the image you can place the subjects on the intersecting points which create a more pleasing image. Check out this post for more compositional techniques.

Saturation: Can provide a colour boost to your image by allowing you to change selective colours within the image. Monochrome images are 100% desaturated as there is no colour.

Sharpening: Sharpening defines the edges within an image and can be used to correct the blur within the image.

Shutter Priority: Sometimes S or SV on your camera dial is the mode for which you can change the shutter speed, as the camera matches the correct aperture for the right exposure.

Shutter Speed: The length of time the camera shutter is open for, therefore controlling the amount of time light is entering the camera’s sensor. Long exposures use longer shutter speeds and sport/action photographers use quick shutter speeds to freeze the subject.

Telephoto Lens: Long lenses, typically used by wildlife and sports photographers.

Time Lapse Photography: Is a type of photography where a camera captures many images over a set amount of time, to create a video where time is moving faster.

Ultraviolet filter: Protects your camera lens from UV light and scratches.

Viewfinder: The photographer looks through the camera’s viewfinder to focus and frame the shot.

Vignetting: Is common in camera lenses and means the darkening of the image corners compared to the centre.

VR: Vibration Reduction, image stabilization technology used within lenses.

Warm Colours: Normally associated with sunsets and is the reds and yellows within the image.

Watermark: Is typically the photographer’s logo or name imprinted onto an image to protect the photographer’s image.

White Balance: (WB) is used to regulate colours to match the actual light in the scene from fluorescent lighting, sunlight and bulbs and takes into account the colour temperature within the image.

Wide-Angle Lens: The focal length of a lens which is classically smaller than a normal lens, it is normally used by landscape photographers to capture wide scenes.

photography definitions and keywords

Thank you for reading this article, feel free to print this out for your own use or as a glossary for photography terms you come across.

If you have any other ideas for keywords please leave them in the comments below and I’ll add them in the future.

Plus, if you’re studying photography I highly recommend you check out these ebooks and posts.

Thanks again and if you enjoyed reading it please share and even pin it to your Pinterest wall!

Some of these links are affiliates which means I make a small percentage if you use my link.

6 Reasons Why You Should Study Photography

Is photography your passion? Or want to take better photos? Sometimes taking a course in photography is the way to go as it can teach you all the skills you need.

However if you’re already an established photographer sometimes it might be hard to decide if you need a qualification in it. Plus deciding whether or not you want to study photography at college or University can be a tough one. You need to decide which method best suits the way you can learn a new skill.

6 Reasons Why You Should Study Photography

To help you decide here are some reasons why you should maybe consider studying photography!

1. To Learn the Skills Used in the Industry

One of the main reasons people take up a photography course is for the contacts! Many photographers are self-employed and if you’re starting a business with no help it can be hard. So while you study make sure you network to help further your career.

 

2. Qualifications Help

Yes, quite a few established photographers are self-taught but loads of photographers have qualifications on their CV. Plus when applying for jobs some ask for qualifications as a requirement.

 

3. To Be Creative and add to Your Portfolio

Being on a course will force you to take images in a certain style, even if you’ve never attempted that style before. During most courses they will make you research a particular photographer to see how they take their images. You will then have to take your own images in their style, pushing you to create more!    

 

4. Earn Some Side Money

Some freelance photographers can earn between £20,000 to £30,000 a year! So learning becoming a photographer on the side may increase your income. There are many ways to make money as a photographer from Stock Photography to selling prints.

Not only that, but your teachers will understand the current ways people are making money through photography. Like starting up your own website or creating workshops in your local area.

 

5. Interaction with Other Photographers

One definite way to improve your photography is by meeting other like-minded people. Therefore if you join a photography class you’ll make friends and all help each other improve your skills.

 

6. Learning Different Styles

Meeting all these photographers and researching leading photographers can only help you find out which style of photography suits you. You might research photographers such as Martin Parr and find a passion for documentary photography!

 

However studying photography might not be a viable option for everyone. Cost definitely can come into play when learning photography as it’s an expensive hobby! Nevertheless if you have a passion for pursuing photography there are loads of great books and EBooks you should check out!

Thank you for reading this article, if you have any other ideas please leave a comment down below and I’ll add them to the list!

If you’re studying photography I highly recommend you check out these ebooks and articles:

Thanks again and if you enjoyed reading it please share and even pin it to your Pinterest wall!

 

 

Some of these links are affiliates which means I make a small percentage if you use my link.

Top 12 Tips for Better Landscapes

My Top Photography Gifts of 2018

Landscape Photography can be very rewarding and is by far my favourite style of photography. You can spend hours in the country side or even your local city, finding the best light or composition. I know I’ve spent countless hours at my local beach waiting for the right light! By the time you’ve read these tips, hopefully you’ll be ready to capture some amazing landscape images! 

Landscape Scotland

1. Take Images During the Golden Hour (sunrise/sunset)

Use websites such as www.sunrisesunsetmap.com to work out when the sun will set and then use the hour before sunset as your time to capture the Golden Hour. Sunrise will create cold calm blues and reds while a sunset creates striking oranges, yellows and long shadows. 

You’ll need to make sure the image is properly exposed, so use the exposure compensation button to reduced the amount of light entering the camera. Therefore exposing for the sky not the land.

Long Exposure Landscape

2. Create Depth by Using Interest in the Foreground

Having an object in the foreground of an image can make the image seem more 3D then 2D as this creates depth. Examples of foreground interest include rocks, plants, lobster pots, benches and signs. Along with a small aperture this can create a greater depth of field. 

Frost Landscape

3. Don’t be afraid to overexpose or underexpose the image

You can overexpose your image within the manual mode or using the exposure compensation button. If you want to use manual mode first go into aperture priority mode and see what the camera recommends. Then switch the dial to manual mode and input the settings and increase the shutter speed if you want an overexposure, or, decrease it if you want to underexpose the image.

The exposure compensation button lets you ‘add’ more light or ‘take away’ light. Underexposing the image can help with sunsets as this darkens the scenery and brings out details in the light.

 

4. Find leading lines within the landscape

Creating leading lines within your image generates depth and allows the viewers eye to wonder around the image and draw themselves in.

Natural lines can include waves, sun rays, trees, fences and paths.

Littlehampton Beach

 

5. Filters

Using graduated neutral density filters can make the image more balanced with an even exposure. By darkening the sky using the filter, this creates an even exposure over the landscape.

 

6. Tripod

A tripod is crucial for long exposures. Even the slightest movement from the camera by pressing the button can create a slightly blurry image. Therefore using a tripod is necessary if you are creating a sharp landscape.

 

7. Arrive at the Location Early

This allows you time to set up your gear and position the tripod and camera in the perfect position. So once the sun is in the perfect position you are not in a to get the perfect shot.

 

8. Revisit the location Over and Over Again

This is one of the most important things you need to learn early on in landscape photography, as you will see your images improve over time. So look back at some of your photos you aren’t happy with and revisit this location a few times to see if your images improve. Even try going back over different seasons and weather conditions.

 

9. Think About the Season 

Photographing landscapes in different seasons can impact how the landscape appears. In autumn the leaves are a brownish red and as the weather is starting to get dramatic as we move into winter. Therefore the sea can get rough and generate larger waves over the coast line. Whereas in spring going into summer the flowers are out and the leaves are green making for more bright landscapes.

 

10. Move the Camera along Prominent Lines

This technique can create minimalistic images as you lose detail buy making more abstract photos. The next time you are outside with your camera, and it’s not too bright, use a shutter speed of around ¼ second and move the camera along the horizon or trees and see what the outcome is.

Tree Landscape

 

11. Use a wide angle lens

I brought a 10mm-20mm lens a few years ago and have only used it a few times because it always seems easier to use the kit lens that came with the camera. However I have started using it again and I have forgotten how much it improves the landscape as it creates depth. Judge the landscape for yourself and see what focal length best suits the landscape.

 

12. Research the location

If you have previously visited a location or are planning a trip to one, researching the location beforehand gives you an advantage once you are there. Look at Google Earth or Street View and see where the vantage points are. Type in the location on photography websites like 500px or flikr and see what other photographers have done to see what you have to do to make yourself stand out.

 

Thank you for reading this article, if you have any other ideas please leave a comment down below and I’ll add them to the list!

If you’re studying photography I highly recommend you check out these ebooks and articles:

Thanks again and if you enjoyed reading it please share and even pin it to your Pinterest wall!

 

Some of these links are affiliates which means I make a small percentage if you use my link.

How to Analyse A Photograph

Analysing images can help your photography massively as it will teach you the strategies and techniques other top photographers are using in their portfolios. Therefore understanding this important skill will allow you to expand your knowledge of how other photographers work.

These are some rules and ideas you can use to analyse other photographs.

Make sure you use some photographic keywords when analysing an image.

 

Composition

Close your eyes and then open them and make a note of where they look first. This is the focal point and where the viewer’s eyes draw into first.

Have any rules been used? Like the Rule of Thirds or the Golden Rule?

Is there anything singled out or is there more than one subject in the photo? What are the subjects?

Has the Photographer purposely used a technique to compose the image?

What are the main colours the photographer has used? Have they used colour to compose the subject?

Substance

What is the image of?

Where was it taken? Outside, Inside, underwater, in a studio?

Why was it taken? To document, personal work?

When was the image taken?

 

Lighting

Where is the light coming from? Behind the camera, to the side or is it the camera pointing into it like a silhouette?

Is it natural light or has the photographer used flash?

Are there harsh shadows or soft light/shadows

Is the image over exposed or underexposed? What could this give the impression of?

What time of day was the image taken in? If it was taken outside is it sunrise, midday, sunset or at night?

 

Techniques the Photographer Used

Was it a quick shutter speed or a long exposure?

What aperture could the photographer have used, is it a high or low depth of field? What does this imply?

Have they purposely overexposed or underexposed the image?

Is the camera still or moving with the image?

Are there any other artists that could have inspired them?

Study the photographer’s history on their website and see who has inspired them and are they using the same techniques?

 

Editing

Could this be a digital photo or from a film camera? Therefore how could they have edited the image?

Have they printed the photo and then manually edited it by applying other elements to it?

 

Write your opinions on the image

Is the image successful? Why?

Do you like their work? Why?

Is the meaning clear? Why?

 

 

How to analyse a photograph Infographic

How to analyse a photograph

Thank you for reading this article, if you have any other ideas please leave a comment down below and I’ll add them to the list!

If you’re studying photography I highly recommend you check out these ebooks and articles:

Thanks again and if you enjoyed reading it please share and even pin it to your Pinterest wall!

 

 

Some of these links are affiliates which means I make a small percentage if you use my link.

 

 

20+ Photography Ideas

Being creative in the world of photography is hard and in order to stand out you need to be unique. Forcing yourself to stick to a style of photography will compel you to make creative images.

Here is a list of various styles of photography which should get your creative ideas flowing. Why not combine some of the techniques in to one photograph!

1. Long Exposure Photography – Water

beach-groyne
(Harvey woods – Harvtrek.com)

While using a tripod in low light you can change the look of moving subjects, creating a very unique image. Water is perfect for this and can create a misty, moody image.

2. Long Exposure Photography – Lights/Light Trails

cars-1284000_1920
(Pexels – Pixabay.com)

Using a tripod and long exposure (between 10-30 seconds) you can turn moving cars into light trails. 

 

3. Long Exposure Photography – Star Trails

mountain Long Exposure
(Unsplash – Pixabay.com)

A much longer exposure of around 30 minutes you can track the movement of the stars within your scene. Focusing on different parts of the sky can create different effects, such as pinpointing the northern star can create a circle of stars rather then lines.

 

4. Long Exposure Photography – Zooming in

Long Exposure Car Wheel
(tookapic – Pixabay.com)

Shorter shutter speeds of around 1/3 sec, while zooming in/out with the camera lens, can produce very artistic images like the one above.

 

5. Long Exposure Photography – Panning Up

Long Exposure Forrest
Harvey Woods (Harvtrek.com)

Moving the camera upwards while using an exposure of around ½ a second can create unique lines during the exposure. Make sure you use a tripod to keep the straight lines.

 

 6. Bokeh

bicycle BOKEH
(Pexels – Pixabay.com)

Selecting a large aperture can create a pleasing blurry background and is ideal for portraits.

 

7. Hold up Old Photos to Match them up with the Background

photograph on top of image
Harvey Woods (harvtrek.com)

Finding old and new photographs is a great way of telling a story by holding them up against a scene. Check out the website ‘dearphotograph.com’ for some amazing examples.

 

 8. Overlap Photos

Image on top of image
Harvey Woods (harvtrek.com)

If you photograph a scene but each image overlaps the other by a 1/4, once printed you can place them over the other to show a panoramic. 

 

9. Underwater Photography

Jellyfish
(Stocksnap – Pixabay.com)

Using an underwater camera or waterproof housing you can create some fascinating images of wildlife underwater. There are various courses that can teach you the basics of underwater photography, which is recommended before you try it yourself.  

10. Use Shadows

shadows Dancing
(Loggawiggler – Pixabay.com)

Shadow art is very common amongst street photographers and can be very creative as not every image will be the same. 

 

11. Make A collage

Bear College
Harvey Woods (harvtrek.com)

 Capturing a series, of images of a moving subject, can tell a story if you print them as a college. 

 

12. Macro Photography

Macro Frog
Harvey Woods (harvtrek.com)

Macro photography is photographing objects that are extremely small. Normally macro photographers would use a lens with a 1:1 ratio, which is the size of the subject on the sensor.

 

13. Panorama

Old Rotting Boats
Harvey Woods (harvtrek.com)

Panoramas are perfect for those situations where the beautiful view won’t fully fit in your lens. This technique allows you to capture these scenes with a few photos and some editing.

14. Double Exposures

Double Exposure
(Rakazt – Pixabay.com)

Double exposures can be done in camera or post editing. Combining two images can make very creative silhouettes if done correctly.

15. Create Frames within an Image

London
Harvey woods (harvtrek.com)

Framing an image acts as a leading line towards the focal point and is a very clever way to compose your image.

 16. Street Photography

Streek Photograph
Harvey Woods (harvtrek.com)

if you’re patient and want a way to show of your surroundings, street photography is definitely for you. 

17. Film Noir

film noir
Harvey Woods (harvtrek.com)

Film Noir is topic photography students typically study, and can definitely be linked to street photography as it’s a way to add drama using dim lighting.  

18. Photograph in the rain

Rain
StockSnap (pixabay.com)

Not one for the faint-hearted as capturing photos in the rain could possibly damage your gear. However if you’re willing to buy the correct equipment you can achieve very dramatic images.

19.  Weather Photography

Lightning Strike Photo
Harvey (Harvtrek.com)

Similar to photographing in the rain, weather photography is very unpredictable and can be highly dangerous. However, this also means it’s very rewarding.

20. HDR

HDR photo
(Skitterphoto – Pixabay.com)

A technique popular with landscape photographers, is where you take 3 or more images with different exposures and then edit them together creating a balanced image.  

21. Time Lapse

Time lapse photo
Harvey (harvtrek.com)

Capturing a series of images, with a quick shutter speed, can show a story of how objects move (like above), or how clouds move across the sky.  

22. Black and White

Black and White Image
Harvey (harvtrek.com)

One of the most popular forms of photography and a technique some of the most famous photographers use themselves. Working in black and white will force you to think about your composition more carefully, and will therefore help you improve your skills.

23. Food

food photo
(Oldmermaid – Pixabay.com)

Images of colourful fruits and creatives coffee designs are all very popular and is a route many professional photographers go down. Just think about how many cookery books there are out there!

24. Sport

Bike Slow Motion Photo
(Unsplash – Pixabay.com)

This genre of photography is fairly self explanatory but like food photography it can also be big business! Sport photography is all about quick shutter speeds at the right moment and can take you to some extreme places around the world.

This collection of photography ideas will be ongoing as there are hundreds of photography ideas out there. If you have any yourself, or would like to submit your work to the board, feel free to drop us a message.20+ Photography Ideas

Thank you for reading this article, if you have any other ideas please leave a comment down below and I’ll add them to the list!

If you’re studying photography I highly recommend you check out these ebooks and articles:

Thanks again and if you enjoyed reading it please share and even pin it to your Pinterest wall!

 

 

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